HALF-SHAFT REPLACEMENT

    The time might come when you need to replace the half-shafts due to torn boots, leaking grease, or worn universals.   It's a lot cheaper to do it yourself.   That time came for me in June of 2003.   I found green-gray grease resembling boogers all over the passenger side of my engine bay and engine.   After a few inquiries on ClubGP's Forum (thank God for the great members there!) I found that it was grease for my CV boots.

    I'm writing this up because I thought I could figure this out myself....boy was I wrong.   I should note that this is a guide and may not be complete (but is to the best of my knowledge).   If you are not mechically inclined or have misgivings about completing this yourself, leave it to a professional.   I'd like to start by thanking the people who helped me:
  • Mikey - Who could ask for a better father-in-law!
  • Chris Green of TX - The man with the answers....need I say more of him?
  • Adam Garrett - For giving me CG's number
  • Jeremy Flowers - That hub did come off eventually.
  • Chris White - Thanks for calming me down!
  • Tony Lauer - Dude....when you're in the water, it's not necessary to answer the phone!
    In my first attempt, I started on the driver's side and made a lot of mistakes.   Fortunately all were reversible and caused only aggrevation and no damage.   I removed the brakes and hub only to find it wasn't necessary.   What should have taken me less than 30 minutes, took over 3 hours.   That said, a lot of these pictures are of the driver's side.   I'm using them as an illustration and you should ignore the fact that the brakes and hub have been removed.

    You can get new, OEM half-shafts from your dealer (over $450 each) or remanufactured units from your local NAPA or Advanced Auto Parts (about $80 each).   I purchased a reinforced set (DS and PS) from South Florida Pulley HQ for $250.   Compared to OEM, they look pretty-much the same.   The boots are made of heavier rubber and have rounded pleats.   Here's a few pictures of the SFPHQ half-shafts.


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    During the installation I came up with a list of tools that you'll need.   This isn't the end-all-be-all list of tools, but should complete the job.
  • Safety Goggles or Glasses (just in case)
  • Mechanix Gloves (makes work easier)
  • Hydraulic Floor Jack
  • Adjustable Jackstand
  • Lug Nut Wrench
  • 1/2" Ratchet or Breaker Bar with a cheater pipe or an 1/2" Impact Wrench
  • 3/8" Ratchet (if you have sockets that need it)
  • 36mm Axle Socket
  • 15mm Socket
  • 13/16" Socket
  • 13/16" Open-End Wrench or Crescent Wrench
  • Hammer
  • 2ft section of pipe (at least 1/2" o.d.)
    The first thing you'll want to do is put the car in park and set the parking brake.   Then jack the car up and remove the wheel (middle picture).   Once the wheel is off, jack the car up enough to get a jackstand under the subframe.   The subframe is the heavy steel beams running parallel with the car (circled - left picture).


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    Once the car is stabilized on the jackstand, it's time to remove the axle nut.   Using an impact wrench or breaker bar with a cheater bar on it, loosen the nut in the normal counter-clockwise fashion.   If you use the breaker bar/cheater combination, I recommend putting a heavy piece of cardboard against the car to protect the paint (just in case).   It takes a LOT of force with the breaker bar....I basically had to stand on it.

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    With the axle nut removed, use a hammer to pound the axle out of the knuckle (inward).   IIRC, you can also rent a hub puller to do the same thing.   The axle should not go all the way in, but you will know when it's free because it will go in, but come back into the splines.   Next you'll need to remove the strut assembly to have clearance for removing the half-shaft.

    Remove the lower strut bolts with the 13/16" socket and open end wrench (or cresent wrench).   The bolts are marker in the left-hand picture below with arrows.   The will probably not come all the way out with the pressure of the spring against them.   We used a pipe and the hydraulic floor jack (middle) to press up on the strut to relieve the pressure on the lower bolts.   You can see how we positioned the pipe in the right-hand picture below.

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    After the lower bolts have been removed, the knuckle will swing down free.   With a 15mm socket, remove the 3 strut tower bolts on top and the entire strut assembly (left) will come out.   Be careful when you release the floor jack since there will be nothing to keep the strut assembling from falling.

    Now that the area is clear to work, it's time for the half-shaft to come out.   The transmission end passenger-side shaft is "male", and the driver-side is "female".   To get the shaft out of the transmission, grab the "bucket" and the end near the transmission and pull.   There is a "C" clip inside that will keep it from pooping out instantly.   It took me about 5 mints of tugging and pulling to free mine.   Once it releases, it's really easy.

    There should be enough room to pull clear of the transmission.   Move the bucket towards the back of the tranny and then behind it.   That should allow the hub-end of the half-shaft to come completely out of the hub.   If it doesn't come out, you might need to tap the shaft out of the hub with a hammer.   The middle and right picture are with the half-shaft removed.

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    Installation is pretty-much the opposite order.   Insert the half-shaft into the void behind the tranny.   Place the hub end into the hub.   You should have enough thread showing to start the axle nut.   While the hub is still loose, hold it firmly and start tightening the axle nut (but don't completely tighten it).   This will pull the half-shaft into the hub and give you more clearance for the transmission end.   Next, insert the half-shaft all the way into the transmission.   Once it's in, the "C" clip should catch and it shouldn't slid back out easily.

    Now put the strut assembly back in and tighten down the top three nuts to hold it in place.   Using the floor jack and pipe, compress the strut a bit and line up the lower strut bolt holes in the knuckle with the strut assembly.   Insert the lower strut bolts and tighten them down.   Now you can release the floor jack and remove the pipe.

    Finish torquing the axle nut to 118 ft. lbs.   Double-check the nuts on the strut tower and lower strut bolts.   Jack up the car normally and remove the jackstand from the subframe.   Put the wheel back on and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs.

    That's it.   Make sure to take your car for a test drive.   Here are some comparison pics between the original half-shafts, and the ones from SFPHQ.

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    Let me know if you find any flaws in my write-up.   If you have any questions, feel free to E-Mail me.